By Eilene Lyon
Utah, like most western states, contains large swaths of federal land. It’s safe to describe southern Utah as having nearly as much public as private land. The National Parks have become major draws to the region. These include Canyonlands, Arches, Capitol Reef, Zion, and Bryce Canyon.
Then there are tiny-to-vast National Monuments: Natural Bridges, Bears Ears (created by Pres. Obama, reduced by Pres. Trump, restored by Pres. Biden), and Grand Staircase-Escalante (created by Pres. Clinton). And don’t forget Glen Canyon National Recreation area and many National Forests.
I will probably never return to Arches NP. This tiny park has an outsized claim on the public imagination, thanks to Edward Abbey. It is crowded year-round, even in the too-hot summer months.
But there is still plenty of elbow room and awesome scenery to be found inside and outside the parks. Honestly, I have few pictures to entice you–I’m usually either too busy soaking it in, or the views are simply too vast to capture in an image. I’ll give you a small taste.
Antelope Canyon near Page, Arizona, is renowned, but you can find many equally spectacular slot canyons in Utah. This one is in Grand Staircase-Escalante.
This national monument has plenty of interesting rock formations to wander through.In the southwestern corner of the state, Zion and Bryce can offer up big Wow-factor scenes, but consider visiting in the winter.
In wintertime, Zion is magical with a white crust of snow, or with early-spring runoff cascading from the cliffs.
Water is a vital resource in the desert, of course. There are opportunities for rafting on the San Juan, Green, and Colorado Rivers.
Of course, water is important to wildlife and plant life as well.
We regularly go camping in Bears Ears National Monument, as it’s just about a two-hour drive from home. There are many remote campsites available and places to hike. Even just driving around on Forest Service roads is a great way to explore.
Near the south end of the monument is Valley of the Gods.
And not far from there is Muley Point, overlooking the canyon of the San Juan River.
If you’re looking for arches and natural bridges, they can be found in all the Four Corners states. Some are in parks, such as this one in Capitol Reef, but many others are outside the parks–even along highways.
One reason for the protection of Bears Ears is for Native American cultural artifacts and sacred sites. There are petroglyphs such as these found all over the region. Unfortunately, like this panel, vandals have damaged the historic images.
If you get a chance to visit southern Utah, be sure to pick up a gazetteer to guide you. There is so much to be explored outside the parks. Just follow your nose, carry plenty of water, and bring a camera!
Feature image: Lenticular clouds crown a typical southern Utah scene along Hwy 95.
There are six bighorn sheep in the picture above.
Exquisite pics, Eilene. Thanks for reminding me of just how amazing this part of the world is.
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It took me a little time to come around to desert life, but now I’d never trade it.
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Wow! I am just speechless! I have to get to Utah. These are amazing. And that photo you took looking down into the valley in Zion gave m vertigo!!
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That perch is called Angel’s Landing and is one of the iconic hikes in the park. Most of the trail (many switchbacks) is actually paved. Then there’s that last bit where you hike out a narrow peninsula of rock, holding on to a chain.
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I could never, ever get that close to the edge. When we are at sightseeing stands on top of buildings, for example, I never get close even though those have chest high walls to prevent people from falling over.
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It is disconcerting, for sure. I don’t consider myself a big risk-taker, but heights don’t bother me as much as tight spaces or scuba diving.
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Oh wow, Eilene! These are gorgeous! Talk about enticing your readers to want to visit. I definitely want to. Beauty.
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For now, there is plenty of room for new visitors. 😉 One of the best things about this area is the clear blue skies. The perfect backdrop to all the colorful rock formations.
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Oh yes. I think I would choose the off season. Definitely not in the ridiculous heat of summer!!
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All my visits to Zion have been from November to March. In the summer, private driving access is limited – most people have to take public transportation.
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Well now… That is good to know!!
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Happy to help!
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😁
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I’ve always wanted to the SE parts of Utah Eilene. You’re lucky to be so close. I fully agree that finding places outside the Nat’l Parks is the way to see, learn and experience our environment. Alison and I were talking recently about the crowding in the Nat’l Parks. I was doing one of those “I remember when you could just drive in…” things with her 🙂 WA NParks have remained freely open but incredibly crowded until now as this is the first season that our Mt. Rainier NP has timed entries. I’m sure the others will follow.
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The National Parks ARE special, but they should just be an introduction to public land exploration, not the be-all and end-all. On the other hand, if everyone goes to the parks, that means more open space for me elsewhere!
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I agree- there are so many amazing things to see and places to visit that aren’t well known. The big stuff is great, but discovering your own special places brings just as much fun and meaning.
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Well said, Deb. The parks will happily spoon-feed you nature. Discovering it on your own is much more rewarding.
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Wow, you got around! Antelope and Bryce canyons are some of my favorites. Have not been to Zion yet. Great photos!
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Just playing in my “backyard,” Marie! I’m happy to live in such a stunningly scenic area. And grateful so much of it is publicly accessible.
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I see 6 bighorn sheep. They blend into the terrain very well.
I’ve been to Utah once and your photos remind me of how peaceful it seemed to me. The sun was intense but the colors drew me into the space. And the shapes/texture of the land was like nothing I’ve seen elsewhere.
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Good eye! One is really hard to see. Being in Utah is like seeing the bones of the planet. The sun really is intense, but it brings out the colors and shapes.
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Gorgeous photos!!!
We spent 10 days in AZ in 2001 and loved it – such beautiful landscapes. Wish we’d had time to visit more places. We did hike in Sabino Canyon and drive up to the Observatory at Kitt Peak, then, of course, visit Tombstone (hubby is a big fan of Westerns).
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Arizona also has many amazing places to visit. Tombstone is fun, though a bit “tourist.” At least much of it is genuine. I went to Dodge City, Kansas, and discovered they had torn all the original town down.
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our favourite part of visiting Tombstone was actually Boot Hill Cemetery – far less touristy and definitely real history…
Always disappointing to visit a historical place, only to discover the original history has been removed…
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I don’t think we got to the cemetery in Tombstone, but we did visit the one in Bannack, Montana. So many stories to be found there. We also visited a lot of older cemeteries in Colorado for my book coming this fall. It was all about finding the real history of those communities, the ones who built the town, not just the notorious.
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What an amazing state!
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It really is. Some of the most incredible views are right along I-70.
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I was so looking forward to your photos from Southern Utah. You did not disappoint! Gorgeous photos. Thanks for allowing us to tag along.
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Glad you noticed that I “take requests”!
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😊
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Lovely photos of our beautiful landscapes! It was fun playing the game of counting the sheep. You were right at first I could only count 5. After I read your answer I went back and really struggled to find an all 6. But I did!
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It’s really hard to capture the beauty with a camera. Glad you had fun counting the bighorns!
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I have seen these areas in my traveling years. You did a wonderful job capturing its beauty. Breathtaking. Writing is interesting. You gave me a good laugh when you mentioned that one photo wasn’t taken with a drone. You are too too too close on the edge for comfort, but skilled and very talented.
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Well, thank you for being concerned for my precarious position!
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Southern Utah is probably my favourite ever North American road trip. Our jaws dropped further round every corner.
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It really is amazing, and with the few exceptions noted, very sparse in people, making it all the more wonderful.
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We did go in the summer because we had to, both working for universities. But we managed – as usual, as soon as you stray from the parking areas you lose most people!
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That’s true enough most of the time. Only a percentage will really get out and hike.
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Here in the San Luis Valley lenticular clouds happen often. I love to watch them. A few years ago I was under a low one as it formed. Oh man — that was extremely cool and a little intense.
I love southern Utah. Have you read John McPhee’s book, Encounters with the Archdruid? Lots about Glen Canyon.
The drought down here is very scary. We’ve been in a high fire warning for the majority of the last 3 weeks.
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Hi Martha, I have not read the book, but certainly heard of it. I’ve read quite a bit about Glen Canyon and been to Lake Powell several times. This long-term drought has been worrisome here, too. I’ve done a series here in the blog called Drought Diaries. Maybe time for another post!
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One of my favorite areas!! Beautiful pics!
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Quite understandable!
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I’ve never experienced such awe-inspiring landscapes!
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You would go ga-ga!
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😀
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That is ONE helluva gallery you’ve got going here Eilene.
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Tip of the iceberg…
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Woot!
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Stunning pics, Eilene. I’ve been to only a few of those places. However, Utah may be the most beautiful state.
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For natural splendor, it’s hard to beat.
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Beautiful landscapes, and I think your ‘visit in winter’ is good advice in order to avoid the crowds.
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It doesn’t hold true everywhere. I went to Yosemite NP in mid November and that place was still overrun. Not my cuppa tea.
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You have really wowed me with all this beauty Eilene – I have never been to Utah, so I enjoyed seeing these natural sights. A fellow blogger went to Antelope Canyon and had a lot of photos of the slot canyons in her blog posts. They do make a person feel rather small and inconsequential don’t they?
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You’d be amazed at how small Antelope Canyon really is! I wished I’d had a tripod, but I did get a few nice pictures there.
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I enjoyed seeing fellow blogger Terri’s trip there – the colors and that is smaller – wow! My boss and his family went white-water rafting in Moab about ten years ago. He had some scenic photos from that trip.
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It is an incredible area, for sure!
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I really enjoyed this lovely tour of southern Utah scenes, Eilene, thank you. I also appreciated your honesty regarding the crowds at Arches NP. I’ve had similar experiences at Yellowstone where the crowds were just unbearable with no wildlife in sight, then when I explored other nearby areas had a much better, calmer, time. It is easy to see from your photos why this area is so attractive, truly awesome and unique landscapes. Had fun counting the longhorn sheep…had to go back when I saw there were 6, not 5, and found that one camouflaged on the left. Great post, much appreciated.
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I had a similar experience at Yosemite and am not likely to return. That was in November! Is it ever peaceful and uncrowded there?
Glad you enjoyed the photos and finding the sheep!
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What an exciting trip and amazing pictures! I’m so glad you got away. This looks like a grand start to the adventure year.
I loved Arches but we were there for sunrise and gone before noon – this helped keep the experience more pleasant both in numbers of people and the warmer temps. Of course, that was in 2018 and it’s drastically worse now.
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Well, at least you did get to enjoy it, probably at the best time of day. None of those pics were from our recent camping trip. The few I took didn’t do justice to the views we had. But we really had fine weather and a great time.
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I should clarify that I think the pictures are stunning regardless of when taken. That part of the country is so beautiful and so different than what I see every day that I find it almost hypnotizing.
We knew the crowds would be bad and I sunburn easily so it worked out well! Ha! We would hike and then go do other things before heading back to our Airbnb to get ready for dinner. It worked out well. I will add that we were typically the only car headed to the exit while there was a line of them waiting to get in. We felt quite smart!
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No clarification needed! Yes, the sun can be very intense here. Precautions are essential.
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