By Eilene Lyon
A Brick Edifice
Durango was founded in 1881. Many original buildings, particularly those built of wood, no longer exist. This is the third in a series of the oldest buildings standing on Main Avenue, originally called First Street.
What is now the 500 block abuts the railroad depot. Being the principal method by which people arrived in town, it made sense for hotels to spring up nearby. One of the earliest was a two-story wood structure called the National Hotel. It burned to the ground in 1925. This Sanborn Fire map from 1883 shows the depot and the hotel.
Between 1890 and 1893, a brick hotel arose between the depot and the National called the Palace Hotel. In the same time period, another brick building, housing a butcher shop, was built just north of the National Hotel. It no longer exists. The Palace Hotel acquired an addition in the late 20th century to expand the Palace Restaurant.
The first half-century of Durango’s existence encompassed the era of the traveling salesman. Before good roads had been built, the railroad brought them in and they obtained rooms in the nearby hotels where they could display their wares in addition to dining and sleeping. According to a 1919 news clipping, the hotel then had 30 rooms, a bar, club rooms, and a pool hall.
The Palace Hotel building still stands at 561 Main, but is no longer an independent facility. It is used as an annex for the General Palmer Hotel on the corner of Main and College Drive (formerly 6th Street; originally called D Street). A gift shop and Thai restaurant occupy a portion of the ground floor. A parking lot fills the space between, where once stood the National Hotel and butcher shop.
The Proprietors
The hotel operations were leased out to various proprietors over the years. One of the early ones was Willis S. McNeely, a Union veteran from Kentucky, and his Irish wife, Mary J. O’Grady. They were managing the hotel in 1899 and perhaps earlier. Their second tenure came in 1910, but they left by the end of the year, turning the operation over to J.W. Bradford. The McNeelys were running the hotel again in 1920.
In 1907 and 1908, John F. English was the proprietor. He hosted a wedding at the hotel in June 1907 for Helen Hoagland and Charles Decker. Helen was the daughter of bookkeeper Charles L. Hoagland of the Fort Lewis Mesa (southwest of Durango). Decker was born and reared in Durango. He worked for the railroad and the young couple resided in Silverton after their wedding.
Another wedding that occurred at the Palace Hotel was the second marriage for Lucy Higgans. Her first husband, Thomas Hackett, had been a mining superintendent in Silverton and died of illness in 1895 while in Pueblo. The Hacketts had five children. Lucy then married a miner named Thomas Edwards on January 1, 1900. They had three children before Edwards died in a mining accident in 1909. Following her second husband’s death, Lucy operated a rooming house in Durango.
A Mysterious Death
One of the oddest stories regarding the Palace Hotel is the mysterious death of Edward R. Sullivan in the wee hours of October 31, 1901. Was it murder, or suicide? The coroner’s inquest jury left it undecided. No one was ever arrested in the case, and the circumstances are puzzling.
Ed Sullivan was a native of St. Louis, Missouri. He married Mary Ann Arkes in 1896 and they moved to Chama, New Mexico, where Ed worked for the railroad as a fireman (one who fuels the locomotive boiler). At the Durango end of the tracks, he would stay at the Palace Hotel between work shifts. In the summer of 1901, Mary Ann was expecting the arrival of her second child, in Ferguson, Missouri, where she had returned in 1900. She was there with her two daughters when Ed died of strychnine or arsenic poisoning in his room at the Palace.
A 17-year-old girl, Martha Lechner, who worked at the hotel dining room, called for a doctor at 12:20 a.m. for a sick baby. What the doctor found was Ed Sullivan gasping for breath and too near death to save. Sullivan did not name any culprit, and the look on his face was calm, not panicked.
Found in his room were two large envelopes from the New York Life insurance company, and a note to a fellow railroad employee saying that he was planning to fight a duel. A second note directed that in the event of his sudden death, he wished his remains to be shipped to St. Louis for burial. He may have mailed a couple letters that were not found in his room.
Martha told investigators that the alleged duel had taken place and Sullivan had “dispatched his man.” Then some female spectators had lauded Sullivan by giving him a beer, which he told Martha he believed had “been doped.” But he drank it anyway and returned to his hotel room, where he related these events to her.
The investigation turned up no weapons and no poison in his room. Nor were any victims or witnesses to a duel ever found. Some people claimed that Sullivan and another man, identified only as “Ripple,” had been vying for Martha’s affections. Supposedly, Martha ran off to Denver to marry this Ripple character.
Sullivan’s mother went to Denver police with a letter from her son allegedly detailing a plot involving an unnamed female employed at the Palace and an unnamed man. Mrs. Sullivan declared the pair were in a Denver boarding house and she wished to have them arrested. Nothing supports these allegations.
Rather, witnesses said Martha had been seen with Sullivan that evening and that he had been at his desk writing at 11 p.m. He went to bed about midnight before asking Martha to call for a doctor. It had also been reported that Sullivan had been “brooding sometime over domestic troubles.”
But Martha insisted that Sullivan had been murdered and did not commit suicide. Unfortunately, per the insurance papers found in his room, his policy was delinquent. In neither case would his widow be receiving any proceeds.
Feature image: The building formerly known as the Palace Hotel, now home to a gift shop, a restaurant, and hotel rooms on the second floor managed as the Palace Annex to the General Palmer Hotel.
Sources:
“W. H. McNeely [sic]…” The Silverton Standard, March 5, 1910, p. 3 c. 3; image, Colorado Historic Newspapers Collection : accessed March 7, 2022.
“The Palace Hotel [ad]” The Mancos Times-Tribune, November 27, 1908, p. 4 c. 1; image, Colorado Historic Newspapers Collection : accessed March 7, 2022.
“The Palace Hotel [ad]” The Great Southwest (Durango), April 8, 1910, p. 4 c. 5; image, Colorado Historic Newspapers Collection : accessed March 7, 2022.
“The Palace hotel at Durango…” The Bayfield Blade, December 22, 1910, p. 1 c. 4; image, Colorado Historic Newspapers Collection : accessed March 7, 2022.
“Want Them Arrested” The Durango Democrat, January 7, 1902, p. 2 c. 6; image, Colorado Historic Newspapers Collection : accessed March 7, 2022.
“Trying to Clear Mystery: Some New Facts Regarding Suicide of E. R. Sullivan” Durango Semi-Weekly Herald, January 9, 1902 p. 2 c. 7; image, Durango Herald digital collection, Durango Public Library.
“Wedding Bells” The Silverton Standard, January 6, 1900, p. 3 c. 2; image, Colorado Historic Newspapers Collection : accessed March 7, 2022.
“Decker-Hoagland” Durango Semi-Weekly Herald, June 24, 1907, p. 3 c. 2; image, Colorado Historic Newspapers Collection : accessed March 7, 2022.
“Thomas Hackett, and [sic] old time resident of Silverton…” The Silverton Standard, April 27, 1895, p. 3 c. 2; image, Colorado Historic Newspapers Collection : accessed September 13, 2022.
“Thomas Hackett of Silverton…” The Colorado Daily Chieftan (Pueblo), April 26, 1895, p. 8 c. 3; image, Colorado Historic Newspapers Collection : accessed September 13, 2022.
“Cavein Kills 2 Men Near Silverton” The Telluride Journal, July 29, 1909, p. 1 c. 4; image, Colorado Historic Newspapers Collection : accessed September 13, 2022.
“Suicide or Double Cross Duel: Ed Sullivan Died Early This Morning in the Palace Hotel: Tinge of Mystery in the Case” The Durango Democrat, October 31, 1901, p. 1 c. 1; image, Durango Herald digital collection, Durango Public Library.
“Probable Suicide: Ed. Sullivan, a Railroad Fireman, the Person” Durango Semi-Weekly Herald, p. 2 c. 4; image, Durango Herald digital collection, Durango Public Library.
“Mr. and Mrs. Rod McLeod went to Durango…” The San Miguel Examiner (Telluride), August 16, 1919, p. 10 c. 3; image, Colorado Historic Newspapers Collection : accessed March 7, 2022.
A duel! Doped beer‽ Oh this is one heck of a place. The photo of its front door circa early 1900s made me smile. So simple, less so today. As it should be.
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It was always a fairly basic place, until recent times. The General Palmer and Starter Hotel were the upscale venues.
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Love these stories Eilene. Seems like there is always some nefarious, mysterious component lurking in these old towns given that the railroads were bringing and taking so many folks in and out. Dubious shenanigans happening always make for great historical stories! In not closely related news my youngest and I were just talking about Durango not long ago. She and her husband were east at Great Sand Dunes NP and quite enjoyed it. That got them thinking about more places around southern CO they haven’t visited and of course Mesa Verde came up so I tossed in the Durango area in general. Alison would love the historical value of Durango 🙂
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There are many great places to explore in the southwest corner of the state, Durango and Mesa Verde among them. We visited the dunes last year on a research trip for my upcoming book about pioneer cemeteries. There’s a three-grave cemetery in a private campground just outside the park with an interesting tale. Durango also has a fascinating old cemetery. Anyway, that gets way off topic!
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Every thing, every place, and every person has a history … and you have the knack of uncovering it. Interesting murder/suicide story. I think she did it!
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That little conniving…! I think she was just enjoying the attention, and maybe felt bad about how it turned out for Ed.
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Interesting story about Mr. Sullivan!
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He probably intended to bamboozle everyone.
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Wow, the hotel has certainly seen a lot over its years…Any reports of Ed’s ghost haunting the room he died in? I love the balcony onto which some of the rooms open – looks like a lovely place to sit with a morning coffee 🙂
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Probably a little chilly except in mid-summer. There is a Ghost Walk tour company in town. It wouldn’t surprise me if they included Sullivan’s story.
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What intriguing stories. Especially the murder/suicide. Too bad for Martha that the insurance policy lapsed. It’s fitting end if she was the murderer.
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Well, Martha wouldn’t have been a beneficiary. His wife Mary Ann and the two daughters would have been. Anyway, I think Ed just used Martha to bolster his story about the duel. She was just a girl, still living at home with her parents.
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Oh, I missed that. Thanks for the clarification.
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Intriguing mystery! I also feel sorry for poor Lucy Higgans- twice a widow with 8 children to feed.
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Lucy did have some poor luck with husbands. Didn’t try for a third!
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Wow, what a fascinating slice of history, Eilene! Great read.
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Anytime you have a transient hotel like that, there’s bound to be some interesting tales. I had another suicide there in 1918, but the story was plenty long enough with ol’ Sully there.
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Sounds like you’ve got plenty more material in store!! Great!
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Many more building to cover!
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What a strange death mystery. I wonder if the truth will ever come to light.
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Can’t imagine it will. I have my opinion on the matter, and it matches that of Sullivan’s contemporaries. I figure if there had been any motive or prospective suspect, something more would have been done.
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Suicide over “domestic troubles”?
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He and his wife seem to have been separated. It’s plausible. Some people thought he was not entirely in his right mind. That’s hard to evaluate from this remove. People would probably say the same about me!
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A story for the old TV show “Unsolved Mysteries” – too bad it no longer is on television, though they never dabbled in whether a place was haunted or not. I like how the name is on the sidewalk after all these years.
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I suppose after 120 years this is not one that would prompt an investigation. I thought it was neat to find those imprints on the sidewalk.
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Yes, too much time has elapsed. Yes, the prints enduring all those years!
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I visited Durango years ago when we lived in the Midwest. We met another family and spent a week there. We had some fun including white water rafting, but what I really remember is our daughter was sick almost the entire time. 🙂
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Yeah, the illness things tend to be memorable!
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What a beautiful capture to start things off Eilene. And then . . a murder mystery set against the backdrop of that town. It’s made for a podcast! And it would’ve gotten one if it hadn’t happened over a hundred years ago.
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I thinks it’s fair to say the Durango did embody the “Wild West” for a few decades. And it has always been a beautiful place.
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I love it.
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😊
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How wonderful you have dug up the history of this place. Makes you wonder how many others have so many fascinating things happen within their walls.
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I think there is no end to the stories! Just finished going through the proof pages for my Colorado cemetery book – so many stories, but so many I had to leave out, too.
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If there are any, you will find them! I bet. By the way, I am enjoying “Fortune’s Frenzy”. I didn’t read for over a month but I’ve started again.
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Well, I get that it wouldn’t grab everyone. I hope you find it worth the time, though.
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I had a little trouble in the beginnnig but I am definitely in now.
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😊
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Wow—that is quite a story! Someone should write a screenplay for it!
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It does have potential!
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