Biking to Vienna – Part 2

By Eilene Lyon

Part 1

After a lovely breakfast in the castle at Bad Kruezen, we breezed downhill on the bikes back to Grein where we visited the Stadttheater before heading out again along the Danube. Established in 1791, this is the oldest original theater in all the Germanic countries.

 Rathaus (town hall) that houses the Stadttheater in Grein.
Interior of the Stadttheater.

All of our short rides were behind us and the last two days were both more than 70 km of riding, though we would finish up with a train ride into Vienna. Tuesday, we followed the Danube, admiring castles along the way, riding into the Wachau Valley.

View of Grein and the Danube from the castle.

We had nice view of the large monastery at Melk, but heading into town would have had us backtracking two miles into a headwind and then dealing with cruise ship crowds. (The Danube is a favorite with the river-cruising set – a little staid for our taste.)

Riverfront castle. Just past the castle, we found a nice place for lunch – then we had to ride up the biggest hill of the entire tour!
I’m not sure, but I think The Putterer is making an editorial comment on my beverage selection (it was quite tasty and refreshing, thank you).

Our hotel for the night near Mitterarnsdorf featured the only indoor pool along the route and we enjoyed a nice swim after the long ride. Mitterarnsdorf is a tiny village tucked amongst vineyards. But even little towns have to call out the fire department once in a while, we observed. Whatever it was that had caught fire, it didn’t appear any major damage was done.

View of the vineyards and the back of our hotel near Mitterarnsdorf.

The final ride took us through several scenic towns in the wine district. In Weißenkirchen, we spent a little time wandering and asking directions to find a particular wine shop. Our vouchers included one for a bottle of wine – which apparently meant one for each of us, because when we handed in the voucher we received two bottles of white wine (and yes it was good stuff).

Scene in Weißenkirchen.

The narrow, scenic main street through Dürnstein was another bottleneck with cruise ship passengers, so we didn’t tarry there long. Our lunch stop was a pizza, burger and beer joint along the bike path strangely situated near the Zwentendorf nuclear power plant. No danger here: this is the only nuclear power plant to be completely built and never put into service due to a citizen referendum. It just sits there.

Zwentendorf nuclear power plant view from parking lot. (Wikimedia Commons)

From there, we rode into Tulln where we caught the train into Vienna. We went one stop further than instructed so we wouldn’t have too much riding in the city – it had already been a long day and we needed to find our hotel. Once again, we relied primarily on the phone map app to get us where we needed to go. It felt good to turn in the bikes.

The hotel clerk directed us to an outdoor restaurant in walking distance, next to a small oxbow off the Danube. We were astonished to receive our food order in about five minutes. We shared a rack of ribs with several side dishes.

We had one full day to explore Vienna. The subway system was easy to navigate and we headed for the old city first thing, aiming for Stephansdom (St. Stephen’s Cathedral). As we emerged from the underground, a large billboard commanded our attention. Oddly juxtaposed with the cathedral, it took me a few moments of staring to comprehend what I was looking at.

That billboard with Stephansdom behind it to the left.

Rather than tour the interior of the cathedral, we opted to buy tickets for the catacombs tour. Before that began, we climbed the 343-step bell tower to take in the city views. It was a perfectly clear day and we could see forever, it seemed.

Architectural detail inside Stephansdom.

Thankfully, the guide giving the catacombs tour was fluent in both German and English. In fact, he switched so rapidly from one to the other it kept us on our toes. They didn’t permit photos, so I have none to share. It was fascinating, if a bit ghoulish.

Then we headed to the outskirts of the city to see the Habsburg’s palace, Schloss Schönbrun. Apparently this the THE tourist attraction, absolutely mobbed by tour buses. The grounds cover several square miles it seems and are mostly open to anyone for strolling. We opted to take a tour of the palace and paid entry for a couple of the specialty gardens, including the ones with mazes. You must allow yourself several hours if you plan to tour the gardens and palace both.

Schloss Schönbrun.

We headed back into the old city to explore, not really having time to visit the clock museum or the Museum of Contraception and Abortion. I thought a visit to the baroque National Library would be interesting, but you couldn’t just go in. They required a substantial entry fee.

I balked at paying to enter a library, but realized that entrance fees are probably the sanest method for the Viennese to control the hordes of tourists. It’s a shame, because it must put certain attractions off limits to some people. We opted to stroll around the Presidential district admiring the architecture and statuary instead.

Back in the plaza by the cathedral, the streets were more for pedestrians and open-air dining than for vehicles, so we got cocktails and enjoyed people-watching for an hour or so. Any fiction writer would have a heyday here, just observing clothing, hairstyles, and attitudes.

The next morning we followed the hotel clerk’s suggestion to take a taxi to the airport, though in retrospect we would have been fine taking the subway. It’s usually interesting to have a chat with a local taxi driver. In this case, The Putterer and the driver spent most of the drive talking about cars. Ho hum.

From Vienna, we had an uneventful flight to Dubrovnik, Croatia, for the second part of our trip.

Feature image: “Gate” feature with restaurant on the grounds of Schloss Schönbrun.

38 thoughts on “Biking to Vienna – Part 2

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    1. It does make me a bit nostalgic for past vacations, for sure. It might be a long while before we do that kind of travel again. Glad you liked the photos. I didn’t have many to choose from – guess I was too busy to think of it!

      Liked by 2 people

  1. Such a wonderful part of the world. Fortunate to be there in Sept … yes … part of the cruise ship crowd …. so we were at some of the places you mentioned. Fortunate to go all the way to Bucharest. Hope all is well … stay safe.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. That’s one beauty of a river cruise – you can see much, much more. We have been on cruises, too, but prefer biking where possible. Hope you are doing well, too, Frank! Thanks for stopping by.

      Liked by 2 people

      1. We saw a number of bikers along the river. You mentioned Durnstein. I hiked up to the castle ruins .. beautiful view!

        Liked by 1 person

    1. Yes, it is still an active theater. There’s a little jail cell off to one side and if I recall correctly, back when that was in use the prisoners could watch the show. The had a display about some of the performances and some costumes on mannequins.

      Liked by 2 people

    1. So many places to see… I sometimes think I shall stop traveling to places that require air transport, but part of me really does love it. We’ll see what our new world is soon enough, I guess.

      Liked by 1 person

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