Clara’s Post-War Trip

Week 24: #52 Ancestors – Last One Standing

By Eilene Lyon

Clara Bedford wrote a letter to her aunt, Abby (Bedford) Jenkins, on May 14, 1865 from Springboro, Ohio. Clara Jane Bedford is my 1st cousin 4x removed. She was one of two children, both daughters, of William S. Bedford and Elizabeth Dearth.

The first page of Clara Bedford’s 4-page letter. (Collection of the author)

Clara’s letter primarily relates a post-Civil War trip she took to Philadelphia when she was 20 years old. I thought it would be fun to revisit the places she went, though most either no longer exist or have been drastically changed. There is probably only one place left standing that remains essentially unchanged from well before Clara’s time to today.

There is a wonderful website called Greater Philadelphia GeoHistory Network that offers a menu of historic Philadelphia maps overlaid on a current map and all georeferenced. The map most contemporary to Clara’s visit is the 1862 Samuel L. Smedley map. The map images in this post are all courtesy of the website.

Many of the places she mentions are west of downtown, located in the Fairmount district of the city. She stayed with the family of her uncle, Isaac T. Bedford, who lived at 321 Noble St. (no longer exists, not even the street section).

This location is north of downtown, just a few blocks west of the Delaware River. The Delaware and Schuylkill Railroad was just a block away and had horse-drawn passenger cars. It would have easily taken Clara to the Fairmount district.

Example of a horse-drawn railway car from Los Angeles in 1870. (Wikimedia Commons)
Section of 1862 map showing the west end of the Fairmount District. The Waterworks is in the red circle, and the park is to the south and east. (Click to enlarge)

“We went through the waterworks The immense power of the machinery, working so quietly, almost terrified me, and I was not sorry to reach the open air once more. The grounds, I think are laid out beautifully. Nature helped, not spoiled and lost. The ascent of the hill is made, now, by a broad path with an iron fence on one side…”

I believe Clara refers to the Fairmount Basin, which was a large park overlooking the Schuylkill River, and where the Philadelphia Museum of Art is today. The waterworks are noted on the map by the river, and her uncle took her on a tour there.

Fairmount Waterworks from the Basin. (Wikimedia Commons)

“Aunt and I went to the Blind Asylum one day, and on our return stopped at the residence of Cousin Isaac’s family, we had only intended a call, but stayed to tea.”

Pennsylvania Institution for the Instruction of the Blind in 1840 (Wikimedia Commons)

Clara’s father had a cousin, Isaac Bedford, that she refers to here. He died in 1862 and Clara visited his widow and adult children. The Bedford home was at 1935 Callowhill (a parking lot now).

The asylum was formally the “Philadelphia Asylum for the Blind” or the “Pennsylvania Institution for the Instruction of the Blind,” at the corner of Race and 20th Streets (previously Sassafras and Schuylkill Streets). I find it odd that people took in places like this as tourist attractions.

The Franklin Institute occupies that space now, which includes the Benjamin Franklin National Memorial. The Institute was founded in 1824, but the current building opened in 1934.

Section of 1862 map showing the approximate location of Isaac Bedford’s home (red) and the location of the “Blind Asylum” (green). (Click to enlarge)
Foreground is Logan Circle (the remnants of what was once Logan Square – seen above in the map to the right of the “Blind Asylum”) with the Franklin Institute at left. At the far end of the parkway in the center is the Philadelphia Museum of Art, previously known as Fairmount Basin. (Wikimedia Commons)

“I visited the Navy yard with Aunt Sarah’s nephew & wife. He is engineer on a gunboat, and we were permitted to go around more. We were on board a Monitor, and a large steamship. In returning we visited Independence Hall. I could have spent several hours there contentedly.”

The Navy Yard was along the Delaware River south of downtown. It no longer exists and is now a commercial district. Independence Hall, of course, is one of the iconic historic sites of the American Revolution.

Section of 1862 map showing the Navy Yard at the east end of Washington Ave. (Click to enlarge)
This Civil War image shows passing regiments from the north and east constantly arriving at the foot of Washington Avenue, with the Navy Yard in the background. (Wikimedia Commons)
Independence Hall – the Last One Standing. (Wikimedia Commons)
Independence Hall in 1876. (Wikimedia Commons)

“We visited the Academy of Natural Science (The old Museum is not in Existence) of Music, and Fine Arts. West’s two paintings there attracted my attention, almost altogether. Christ Rejected, and Death on the Pale Horse.”

Each of the three academies were in different places around the city. The only one still in the same location is the Academy of Music, at the corner of Locust and South Broad Streets. It is a registered National Historic Landmark.

Section of 1862 map showing the Academy of Natural Sciences (red) and the Academy of Music (green). (Click to enlarge)
The Academy of Natural Sciences and LaPierre House 1869. (Wikimedia Commons)
The Academy of Fine Arts. (Wikimedia Commons)
The Academy of Music. (Wikimedia Commons)
The Academy of Music (we’ll call it the “Next to Last One Standing”). (Wikimedia Commons)

Benjamin West was American born, but spent much of his life in England. He founded the Royal Academy there and worked for King George III (though he remained loyal to his birth country). West is known for his historical subject matter.

Benjamin West’s “Death on the Pale Horse.” (Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts)

“We went to Girard College. The President, now only allow people to visit the main building … [Jane Hamilton] showed us the washhouse an ironing room, the Laves and the kitchen. The main building look like the pictures I have seen … The whole building aexecp the last flight of steps that head up to the roof is solid marble.”

Section of 1862 map showing Girard College (red) in relationship to the Fairmount Basin park (green). (Click to enlarge)
View of Philadelphia to the south from Girard College 1850. (Wikimedia Commons)
Founder’s Hall at Girard College (“the main building” built of marble). This building still exists, too. (Wikimedia Commons)

Clara didn’t offer any details about how she traveled from Springboro to Philadelphia and back, but it would have most likely been by train. She accompanied her younger sister, Florence, and someone name Kelia, whom I have not been able to identify.

What are your favorite historic sites in Philadelphia?

Feature image: Postcard of Independence Hall around 1900. (Wikimedia Commons)

40 thoughts on “Clara’s Post-War Trip

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  1. I so love these posts, Eilene. This one especially, as I actually did visit Philadelphia (though it was hotter than Hades and we didn’t see as much as I would have liked. ) Will have to go back!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. The opening song from the musical “1776” decries Philadelphia in the summer as “foul, fetid, fuming, foggy, filthy”. I expect it’s much cleaner now, but heat and humidity will forever be an issue. I expect there’s probably an ideal time of year to visit.

      Liked by 1 person

      1. I hear ya. I thought it would be more than it was, to be honest. But, going through the main drag, I saw things in alleys that brought me to a whole new world (didn’t need a festival as they were already there; or at least, were worked on more, maybe?)

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  2. This was fascinating Eilene! You truly have a gift for genealogy and historic research. I have never been to Philadelphia but used to read a blog written by a Greek professor who taught at Temple. One of her weekly habits was to post pictures of the Schuylkill at different times of the day.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. How fun to have this letter and recreate Clara’s visit to Philly. It seems your Clara was interested in educational and cultural landmarks. I wonder what the itinerary of a 20-year-old visiting the city today would include. Thanks for sharing!

    Liked by 1 person

  4. So interesting to see the actual places referred to in the letter. I’m charmed by a horse-drawn railway car, but fascinated by the Academy of Fine Arts building. Such different times.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. I suspect not. However, one of Clara’s cousins, William Z. Jenkins, was blinded in a mining accident in California. During the war years he spent some time at the Indiana Blind Institute learning handcrafts such as broom making. He would have been in his 30s at the time.

      Liked by 1 person

  5. Last time I was in Philly, we hit Reading Terminal Market for the best sandwich (IMHO) in the country. But alas, it was too hot . . . we did do some walking down by the Liberty Bell but mango . . .

    Liked by 1 person

      1. We got a Gino’s and a Pat’s, one of each, since they are right across from each other. Honestly I liked them both.

        Oh, haha! Mango is my way of combining “Oh man!’ and “Holy shit!’ in one word, sorry for the confusion.

        Liked by 1 person

  6. I have never been to Philly but like to go one day, not only to see the Liberty Bell and the other significant historical buildings/documents, but to try a genuine Philly cheeese steak sandwich!

    Liked by 1 person

  7. What a lovely trip back in time…how wonderful you found so many contemporary illustrations as well as that amazing over-laid geo-referenced map. I loved this post… Also mean to add that though I keep thinking I’ve not seen new posts from you, somehow I’m missing them and have to get caught up all at once.

    Liked by 1 person

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