Historic Hotel Colorado

By Eilene Lyon

A couple weeks ago I drove up to Glenwood Springs, Colorado, to give a presentation about my book, What Lies Beneath Colorado. I’ve never spent much time in Glenwood Springs, a place well-known for its Victorian-era hot springs resort.

My last visit was brief, specifically to hike up to the Linwood Cemetery. It is the only cemetery in my book that achieves the status of Tourist Attraction. This is largely due to being the burial place of legendary John Henry “Doc” Holliday. Though his actual grave site is unknown, there is an extensive memorial for him.

My talk was sponsored by the Glenwood Springs Historical Society. Because of the distance from Durango, I received a complimentary room at the historic Hotel Colorado. A silver magnate named Walter Devereaux built this Italianate villa-style establishment in 1893, five years after the construction of the hot springs resort next door.

Intended to attract the country’s wealthiest citizens for a leisurely and healthful spa vacation, it was lavishly appointed. It was one of the world’s first electrified hotels. It originally had an indoor waterfall, extensive gardens, and a large courtyard fountain. One claim to fame they boast about is repeated visits by Teddy Roosevelt. Images of the former president are found on every floor.

The hotel changed hands many times over the years. During World War II, it was used as a Navy convalescent hospital—yes, far from any naval port! Fireplaces, made from locally-produced brick, were sealed and plastered over to provide better sanitation. The rooms were essentially gutted and reconfigured in hospital fashion. Steam boilers were brought in and radiators installed throughout the building.

The most recent change in ownership occurred in 2018. Some renovations took place, but were put on hold due to COVID. The work continued in 2022. Period furniture was recreated, and the corridors now look much as they did in the early years. The wide central staircase, unlike in many hotels, goes all the way to the top floor.

My large room on the third floor looked out over the courtyard. People seemed to enjoy lounging there in the oversized Adirondack-style chairs, looking toward the hot springs and downtown Glenwood. There are a bar and restaurant on site. After my talk, I went to the bar for a glass of wine and a delicious roasted garlic and portabello mushroom flatbread.

Though I contemplated visiting the hot springs resort, or another one nearby that is exclusively for adults, the next day dawned rainy. I decided to head on home, enjoying the Rocky Mountain scenery and the most glorious fall colors we’ve had in recent memory.

Feature image: 1906 postcard of the Hotel Colorado in Glenwood Springs (Wikimedia Commons)