Historic Harpers Ferry

By Eilene Lyon

Though I spent years of my childhood in Virginia, Pennsylvania, and Ohio, I had never been to Harpers Ferry before our September biking trip. Knowing a small bit of its history (particularly John Brown’s Raid), I planned for a day off and an extra night spent there before our last day of riding to Washington, D.C.

This was an expensive proposition for a few reasons:

1. The bike rental places expect you to finish the ride in seven or eight days. We had to pay an extra day of rental for the two ebikes to make it a nine-day trip.
2. Lodging is limited and expensive in Harpers Ferry.
3. The National Park Service chose this summer to build a new stairway to the bridge that goes from the C&O Canal Towpath to Harpers Ferry. Though scheduled for completion in July (when they tore down the old, spiral staircase), the work was not even close to done in mid-September. Thus, we had to pay a shuttle service to take us to town and then later, back to the bike trail. Not cheap at $75 each way.

Despite the cost, it turned out to be a wonderful side trip, and the history ran much deeper than I knew. Harpers Ferry is located at the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers running through a gap in the Blue Ridge Mountains.

Viewpoint from upper Harpers Ferry to the Potomac River. Maryland left, Virginia right.

The spotted lanternfly is an invasive species that has become a big nuisance. They were everywhere from here to DC.

The new stairway to the Potomac pedestrian bridge, far behind schedule.

The Potomac pedestrian bridge, only open from the WV side.

The confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah, looking downstream.

Peter Stephens established a ferry at the site (across the Potomac) in 1733, later selling it to Robert Harper. A bridge replaced ferry service in 1824. A decade later, the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad and the C&O Canal provided additional transportation options. Today, Harpers Ferry sits at the meeting point of Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland. The Harpers Ferry National Historic Park has a footprint in all three states.

The town’s industrial age began with the establishment of the United States Armory in 1801 to produce small arms. Later, water power built successful mill operations, including a major flour mill and a wood-pulp mill. Periodic floods eventually wiped out these going concerns. There are some visible ruins of the various factories on Virginianus Island on the Shenandoah side.

Remains of the pulp factory, destroyed by flooding.

The firehouse that became known as “John Brown’s Fort” after the raid.

Plaque on “John Brown’s Fort.”

The armory essentially built the town, employing up to 400 people, driving the local economy. It was destroyed in the early days of the Civil War in 1861. The location was a valuable prize and changed hands between the Union and Confederacy numerous times. John Brown’s 1859 raid on the arsenal at Harpers Ferry with 21 other men, many of them former slaves, helped spark the War.

We began our tour day at Storer College, a historically Black college that closed in 1955. It was the site of the second meeting of the Niagara Movement in 1906, a precursor to the NAACP.

But long before John Brown came to town, another illustrious visitor arrived for a very different reason. Meriwether Lewis, about to embark on a cross-continental journey, purchased firearms here, which were essential to the success of the expedition, primarily for hunting purposes.

Lewis also purchased a collapsible metal boat frame, which unfortunately never managed to serve its intended purpose. Additionally, he bought numerous items to use as gifts for Native American people along the route to the Pacific.

A plausible rendering of Lewis’s boat design.

“Jefferson Rock” commemorates a visit by the future president in 1783.

Many early 19^th-century buildings have been preserved or rebuilt in the lower portion of town. Some contain museum exhibits; others are living history displays. We listened to a ranger talk about one of the Civil War battles, an era that is the primary focus for the park service.

Historic Shenandoah St.

Interesting stonework along Shenandoah St.

Detail of stonework.

Civil War cannons on Bolivar Heights.

A bit about Civil War battles.

White’s Tavern drew armory employees after (and sometimes during) work.

Robert Harper House completed 1782, the oldest surviving structure in Harpers Ferry.

Harpers Ferry is a charming historic village, and has excellent restaurants and even commuter and Amtrak train service, in addition to the B & O freight trains that come through. A great place for a day trip if you’re ever in the area.

Amtrak and MARC commuter train station.

The Appalachian Trail runs through Harpers Ferry.

Lily pond at our B & B. There were frogs sitting on the lily pads!

Remains of St. John’s Episcopal Church.

Stone steps to St. Peter’s Catholic Church, est. 1830.

St. Peter’s Catholic Church.

To Be Continued…

Feature image: Historic Shenandoah Street in Harpers Ferry, part of the National Park.